Saturday, November 27, 2004

Things to do in Key West

My top 10 outdoor things to do in Key West:
  1. Spending the day at the Dry Tortugas National Park
  2. Kayak fishing for bonefish, permit, & tarpon
  3. Camping at Bahia Honda State Park
  4. Kayaking the mangroves and backcountry islands
  5. Snorkeling for lobster...yum!
  6. Looking for sea treasures on my favorite isolated beaches
  7. Going out on a Key West sunset sail
  8. Riding my bike around the beautiful neighborhoods of Old Town
  9. Learning about the plants and creatures in our eco-system.
  10. Relaxing & swimming at my favorite beach.
Like this post? Let us know:

Sunday, November 21, 2004

Things to do in Key West Florida

So often I am asked about things to do in Key West Florida. Being an island closer to Cuba than Florida mainland, Key West has it's own unique culture, recreation, and community.
Certainly fishing in Key West is at the top of many people's activity list. Flats fishing, deep sea fishing, and reef fishing in the island chain is incredible. Just the other day, while fishing with one of Key West's better flats guides and a good friend, we were amazed by the huge Permit working the turtle grass shallows in search of a crab dinner. Despite our best efforts, crouching and whispering as we poled in closer, the fish became aware of our presence and moved away.
It was frustrating, but being surrounded by the beauty of a Key West sunset, the water changing colors with the sky, it was hard to wish for things any different.

Like this post? Let us know:

Wednesday, November 17, 2004

Snorkel Key West? This week?

With the wind blowing for the past few days, it's been nearly impossible to enjoy the water. Small craft advisories have been up, and most sane people have avoided going out to sea. But last night a friend told me of a company still running people out to the reef for snorkeling. I don't care how much you want to do some Key West snorkeling, when the reef has two to three foot of chop and nearly zero visibility (due to the winds) I don't think it's in anyone's interest (alright, maybe the owner's) to bring novices out their.
Fortunately, the wind's are due to lie down...just in time for the powerboat races that occur each year at this time. The whole event is sort of surreal. Key West is normally pretty laid back. To see these overpower and roaring machines racing into the harbor at over 100 miles per hour while being chased by a swarm of helicopters can rattle the sedate nerves of a local. The winner is usually the boat that didn't break down. One has to wonder if these boats cause damage to the marine life. Last year, turtles were seen in the area (like there aren't always turtles in the area) and they delayed the race.

Like this post? Let us know:

Sunday, November 14, 2004

Key West Workers Growing Scarce

The Sunday paper arrived and along with it's news, the feeling of unease about my future in Key West. It usually stems from the real estate section, now the thickest of the paper. A one bedroom one bath conch cottage, about 750 square feet, is no less than $750,000. A local realtor, Regina Corcoran, writes the most arrogant column about the local market, completely ignoring the fact that the product she is selling is in big trouble. The Key West real estate boom is a disaster for the tiny island. Where are the people supposed to live that work here? This is not a place you can truck them in everyday. We are an island, ninety miles from mainland Florida and all of the Keys are facing the same problem.
I was attracted to Key West because it seemed to be an island of independents, certainly not all of them honorable, but definitely writing the script according to their experiences. Maybe I'm naive, but it seemed many Key Westers had come to the island by shrugging off the work & consumer mentality. Consumerism was the last thing on people's minds. Yes, there were many hard working families trying to make a better life for themselves. But they were not so driven that they couldn't enjoy life in the process. And they still lived at island speed. They lived here because island life made sense to them, maybe in their blood. The manana attitude was the norm.
I bought my bike, a Conch Cruiser with fat tires and a basket assembled from many other bike's parts, for thirty dollars on the beach and have had it for six years. In my neighborhood, parking was abundant since most people didn't have a car. With an island 2 miles by 4 miles, and no need to rush, why not ride the bike. But today is different. There is no parking spots open nearly every day and Elizabeth Street looks like a new car showroom. These are the cars of the snowbirds and those that sold some of their real estate. There is a project being built called Watermark. It promises a "decadent" and "luxurious" Key West residence with concierge service and "splendid" service. Ridiculous. Enjoying island life shouldn't require a servant. You need a t-shirt and flip flops. Wear some buttons if you want to dress up, but if Key West attracted you because of it's funky laid back attitude then how does a decadent and luxurious experience help. Just ask the Bahamians that have lived here for two hundred years.
My old apartment down the street, on of four in a large house, was bought by a speculator two years ago and renovated into a one-family McMansion. It was bought for 1.2 million, and is on the market for 2.75 million. Across the street, the same realtor is advertising a five apartment building that is "ripe for condo conversion". Rest well tonight tenants.
So, the Sunday morning depression sets in. Where will we live? Clearly we can't afford to buy a place. The clock on our Key West days is ticking. Just another working couple forced to leave. All the while, the mayor Jimmy Weakly, is oblivious to the magnitude of the problem. Or maybe he thinks that the Czech workforce that lives eight to a bedroom can replace all of us. But they can't. Some jobs actually require an education and mastery of the english language. Police, nurses, teachers, are finding it impossible to afford to live here. The police dept. operates with a double digit shortage of cops. They blame housing as the issue.
This rant of mine was sparked by the morning headline of a hotel conversion. Developers have bought another hotel and are converting it into .58 units of luxury condominiums. Tourist businesses are worried about their future. But in me, it reminds me of the rental apartments in Key West that are being bought to evict, renovate, and re-sell as a condominium for +$500,000. Or some four-apartment houses are being bought up and converted to single-family mansions. The process is rampant causing the housing shortage for the workers to increase.
An announcement to those that think you can buy your way into an interesting community: You can't. The currency you should spend is good personality and island sensibility. That is the barrier to entry. When the Key West housing bubble bursts or one hurricane hit's, you should remember that.


Like this post? Let us know:

Friday, November 12, 2004

Key West blog comments welcome.

Now, before I get too far down the blogging trail, I want to take suggestions on what this newbie should do to the blog. If you have an idea about something to add to the blog to make it a better blog, other than a better pilot at the helm, then please comment and let me know. I am going to continue to write about Key West and it's ways. In the future, I am dedicating myself to also reporting on breaking news on the island...at least at the speed of the "coconut telegraph".
So feel free to comment on what this blog needs. I'm still trying to add the tarter sauce.
Like this post? Let us know:

Wednesday, November 10, 2004

Flats fishing in Key West Florida

Windy days like today keep flats fisherman off the water. The normally glass-like nearshore waters of the Florida Keys can become broiling with chop and muddied. Searching for those inshore species like the bonefish, permit, and tarpon, that forage in those shallows, is pointless.
All one can do is think back to last day it was calm, maybe a week ago, when the water seemed invisible across the streches of turtle grass and sand. A ripple and a swirl ahead foretold of the crescent-tailed permit. Pointing the rod in the direction of the fish, your buddy/guide on the poling platform confirms your read. Make one noise, move too quickly, or fumble with the rod, and the permit will notice, leaving you exasperated and respectful. With a held breadth and a jump of the heart, you make your best attempt at casting, hurling a small blue crab to the toughest fish in shallow water. Fortunately, just as the crab hits the water, the permit has his tail out of the water and is preoccupied and unaware of the splash. All he sees is a crab frantically trying to get to the bottom. Gulp! The fish turns, drawing the line tight, and immediately sensing trouble, explodes in a burst of speed and reel screaming noise. Before you can comment to your buddy, the fish is 100 yards away.
Even if you miss, and the fish has spooked (which I should add is still considered a "good" day of permit fishing), you are surrounded by a true backcountry: expanses of gin-clear water dotted with mangrove islands and not another boat, structure, or person within the horizon. Only pelicans and egrets are above the waterline.
Like this post? Let us know:

Tuesday, November 09, 2004


The famous Key West sunset. See it from Mallory Square, or see it from a sunset sailboat, either way, they are usually spectacular.
Like this post? Let us know:

Sun is shining...the weather is sweet.

Oh what a splendid day. After seeing the weather channel for the rest of the country (read: cold!) I've woken with an appreciation of Key West's perfect weather. Today is seventy five degrees heading to eighty with a nice breeze from the North. We have opened up all of the french doors and windows to let the freshly mopped floors dry. Outside, the overgrown tropical foliage shades the house and paints the sky with a hundred shades of green. The orchids seem happy dappled in sunlight.

From today's local press, a selection from The Citizen's Voice (our local rant):


"Gas has come down at most stations in Key Largo 2 to 3 cents a gallon, yet Key
West has gone up 7 to 19 cents a gallon. What is up with that?"

"I rode my boat where Houseboat Row used to be on South Roosevelt Blvd and I was stunned at how crystal clear and beautiful the water is there. It's all because the derelict boats had to leave."
Like this post? Let us know:

Monday, November 08, 2004

Coconuts...for the holiday.

Being an island that is quite a few miles offshore of the mainland, Key West doesn't have the best selection for really good holiday gifts. Sure, you can get some great local crafts and fishing gear. But if you want to buy someone a new gadget, or maybe some bling, something within this decades style, then you have to look elsewhere. Fortunately, the internet has bridged this gap for many residents. No more excuses about filling the stocking with coconuts.
Like this post? Let us know:

Skip & Go Naked

Found a great bar that no one knows about. It's on the other side of Key West from me, about a four mile drive. Hidden in the back of a local timeshare, right on the docks, is pavillion with two walls. The rest is open to the docks it faces. The name is something like Mambos, or Gumbo, or may it was Mumbo and the timeshare is Coconut Mallory.
My old crowd was there and everyone was enjoying it. Fishing captains told dubious stories, pool and poker were boldly challenged, and the drinks were cheap and plentiful. A friend brought a cooler of her favorite party drink, the Skip & Go-Naked. Here is the recipe, if my memory (still a bit foggy) serves me:
  • 1 large bottle of the cheapest vodka you can find
  • 1 case of Old Milwalkee Beer
  • 1 can of frozen juice concentrate
I'm ashamed to say that it tastes better than it reads.
And now, from the local paper, today's selected comment from the Citizen's Voice:
"There is a city commissioner who is also the attorney for Historic Tours of America? This is an egregious conflict of interest. I will be calling the FBI as soon as I get home this afternoon. It is time for an honest government in Key West and Monroe County that represents everyone, not just the special interests.?

Like this post? Let us know: